Flooring 101

Tuesday, November 25th, 2008

appia-antica-ivory-rustic-32x-32-inch1-212x300For those of you out there that don’t find floor covering fascinating and spend your weekends on Google to learn all you can about floors, here’s a run down of the basics. This information may help you understand about your options and what you need to know when you decide you want new floors.

1. The main categories of flooring are:

Carpet

Vinyl or Resilient Flooring

Hardwood

Laminate

Ceramic or Porcelain Tile

Natural Stone

To learn more about these categories and to see different styles see the information outlined on our parent site or just click on the link above.

2. Technology and design styles have had significant influence on flooring. Other than the basics flooring types listed above, there are also styles of cork flooring, bamboo flooring, glass tiles, stainless and other metal tiles, rubber tiles, natural fibers like seagrass and sisal and many others – even paper!

3. Not all floors are acceptable on all foundation types.  For example, most solid hardwood floors cannot be installed on concrete slabs. Be sure to know your foundation type before you start shopping.

4. Flooring is measured and sold either by the square foot or the square yard. Be careful when comparing prices that you are comparing apples to apples. If a hardwood tag says “$4 per SF” and a carpet tag says “$18 per SY” and you don’t see the one letter than distinguishes the two, you might think the hardwood is less expensive than the carpet.

5. Allow a retailer give you an estimate on your room size to determine how much flooring you will need rather than building your budget from your own measurements. For example, if you have a room that is 13′ x 13′ you will need different quantities for different flooring materials. Some items are sold by the box and carpet and vinyl are sold from a roll that could be 12′, 13′6″ or 15′ wide. Since you have to buy items that are sold by the box by the full box (and take the waste factor, pattern match and pattern repeat into consideration) and items sold on a roll by their given width you could need anywhere from 190 SF over 300 SF for a room that actually measures 169 SF.

6. Different floors are made for different lifestyles. For example: You may love hardwood, but if you have large dogs hardwood may not be the best choice for you. If you have dark hair, white bathroom floor tiles might not be the best choice for you.  If you have small children and pets, white carpet may not be the best choice for you.

7.  Keep transitions to other rooms in mind when choosing flooring. Floors have different finish heights and those heights can vary depending on your subfloor. Floors with different finish heights will need to be treated with a transition strip. Transitioning from a (low) vinyl/resilient floor to a 3/4″ solid hardwood floor can be significant. Transition strips are no big deal, if you know in advance to expect them.

8.  Keep resale in mind. Because floors like hardwood, ceramic tile and natural stone are costly and rarely need replacing due to wear, consider how long you are going to live in your home before choosing your floors.  Your favorite color may be blue, but a house full of blue floors may be a turn off to a potential buyer. If you do choose to express your style with a house full of blue floors, be sure that you won’t tire of looking at the same color after a while. However, I am definitely not suggesting choosing all beige floors for resale purposes!

9. It is important to consider maintenance. If you don’t like to clean, there are flooring options with very little maintenance that also stand up to heavy traffic and pets.

10. Floors come in a variety of different styles and that means that they also come with different budgets. Be careful when shopping that you don’t rule out a particular flooring type because of the first priced sample you see. There are some vinyl floors that are as expensive as a hardwood floor and there are prices ranges within each type of flooring that can be as much as $20 per square foot.

The floors in your home are a big decision. They take more wear and tear than most any other item in your home. Other than your walls, your floors consume the majority of the square footage in your home. Choose a floor type based on the fact that you will probably live with it for a very long time!

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Grout lines – What size should they be?

Wednesday, September 17th, 2008

2447671120_3e0ba71715_mThe size of the grout joint can dramatically change the way your overall tile installation looks. It is important to use the right size grout line for technical reasons and also for aesthetic reasons. For example, if you are using a marble or natural stone tile and the grout joint is too large, it can make the marble look fake. Natural stone is cut with such precision that the typical rule for natural stone is to set the tiles with a 1/16″ grout line. When each tile is more uniform, you have the luxury of using a smaller grout line. When tiles are fired in a kiln, there is no guarantee of the precision and uniformity of the edges.

Often, the size of the grout line is left up to the interior designer or the tile contractor. With their experience, they generally know the appropriate size grout joint for each different tile. Larger grout lines are needed for tiles with less than perfect edges so sometimes you can ask for a certain size grout joint, but your tile contractor may recommend that it be a little larger for a more professional looking installation.

There is no right or wrong answer for what size your grout line should be, but below are some guidelines:

  • Natural stone – 1/16″ or 1/8″
  • Tile with a rectified edge – 1/16″ or 1/8″
  • Regular tile – 3/16″, 1/4″ (safest bet) up to 3/8″ or 1/2″
  • Saltillo or Mexican tile – 3/4″, 1″, 1 1/4″

Also, it is important to know that there are two different types of grout: sanded and unsanded. Sanded grout is used in joints that are 1/8″ or larger and unsanded grout (natural stone and glass mosaics) is used in joints that are 1/8″ or larger. Salitillo or Mexican tile has its own type of grout.

For advice on how to choose a grout color, click here.

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Guest Post – Installing New Wood Floors

Monday, September 8th, 2008

This guest post was written by New York Wood Floors
New York Wood Floors:

Installing new wood floors – The amount of traffic in the room and it’s affect on the choice of wood:

index_03-300x80The amount of foot traffic in the designated room will directly affect the color and finish of any wood floors. Natural light wood colors like oak and maple are less affected than dark color wood floors, which tend to wear and show traffic marks sooner. In areas with high traffic extra attention is recommended as far as recoating.  New York Wood Floors are often being coated 1-2 full coats every 6 month to a year and glossy finishes are not being used at all. Such areas are sanded lightly before coating.

Thanks to New York Wood Floors for your advice!

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Green Flooring – Adhesives and Cleaners

Wednesday, August 13th, 2008

  429609966-905e9264c7-m-thumbIn addition to types of green flooring, there are products that can be used in conjunction with flooring that may possess green qualities. The most common are adhesives and cleaners.

There are further considerations than just the actual flooring that will be purchased. The installation method and products used should be taken into consideration as well as how the final product will be maintained.

Adhesives

Adhesives are just as important to consider when purchasing flooring as the flooring itself. Adhesives with harmful toxins can damage indoor air quality by giving off harmful gasses.

Tips for Adhesives:

  • Choose low VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds)
  • Do not contain formaldehyde
  • Qualify for the Carpet and Rug Institutes Indoor Air Quality green label

Cleaners

Cleaners may also contribute to indoor air quality and should, therefore, be considered as part of a green flooring project.

 

Tips for Cleaners:

  • Choose products with natural ingredients
  • Consider homemade cleaners like vinegar, baking soda or mild dishwashing detergent
  • Read labels thoroughly for ingredients

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Flooring Estimates

Monday, July 14th, 2008

 

45756282_3bf3c0d5a6_mDo you know someone in the flooring business? Have you even been in a social setting where you meet someone in the flooring business, say at dinner at a mutual friends house or restaurant and had questions about how much it might cost to add flooring to your home?

Don’t be surprised if you don’t get very far when asking for price ranges for flooring in a social setting! There are many many factors that determine the cost of flooring so even if this person could tell you $12 per square foot – that still doesn’t tell you at all how much your project will cost. In the end, it will only end up leaving you disappointed.

Here are some of the factors that prevent someone from being able to give you a price for flooring on the spot.

  • Existing flooring removal
  • Furniture removal and replacement
  • Floor prep
  • Underlayment depending on your foundation type
  • Direction of installation (more complicated patterns cost more to install)
  • Transitions to other rooms
  • Options within a category such as type of finish coat on site sand and finish wood flooring
  • Size of the room. Just because a room is 14×14, that doesn’t mean that it needs 196 square feet of flooring.

There are other factors, but this gives you an idea of how each flooring project is different and that there are many factors in determining the price of flooring.

For a flooring retailer in your area, click here.

For more detailed information on what to expect when you are expecting floorcovering installation, click here.

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